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Peru Itineraries

The Perfect 7-Day Peru Itinerary

Seven days in Peru is one region done well, not a highlights reel. Here is the Cusco, Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu week with real travel times, the altitude order most guides get backwards, three honest variants and what it all costs.

24 min · Updated Aug 2026

Machu Picchu's agricultural terraces rising in steps toward the guardhouse, with a forested Andean peak behind
Photo: bobistraveling / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Almost every 7 day peru itinerary published online is written by someone selling a tour, and almost all of them make the same structural mistake: they treat a week as if it were two. Lima, then the coast, then Cusco, then the Sacred Valley, then Machu Picchu, then a sunrise hike, and somehow a jungle lodge on the end. I have watched people attempt it. They spend three or four of their seven days in airports, vans and station waiting rooms, and they fly home tired rather than pleased.

Here is the thing nobody selling you a package will say plainly. Seven days in Peru is one region, done properly. That is not a consolation prize. Done properly, the Cusco region alone is one of the best weeks of travel available anywhere. But it only works if you stop trying to bolt on the Amazon, Arequipa or Lake Titicaca, and if you get the altitude order right — which, judging by the top-ranking guides, most people do not.

Machu Picchu's agricultural terraces rising in steps toward the guardhouse, with a forested Andean peak behind
Photo: bobistraveling / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

What a 7 day Peru itinerary actually buys you

Count the real days. If you are flying from North America or Europe, day one is a travel day and day seven is a travel day. That leaves five usable days on the ground. Out of those five, Machu Picchu consumes one and a half to two, because you cannot get there and back in an afternoon. So the honest arithmetic is: three to three and a half genuinely free days.

Three free days is not enough to add a second region. Peru is enormous and the internal distances are worse than the map suggests. Cusco to Puno is seven hours by road. Cusco to Arequipa is nine or ten by bus. Anything else means a domestic flight, and every domestic flight costs you a half day once you account for the transfer, the check-in and the near-certainty of a delay out of Cusco. If you have more time than a week, the full range of Peru route lengths and how they change what you can reach is worth reading before you commit to anything.

So the plan below is the classic Andean week — Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, Cusco — but sequenced the way people who live there would sequence it, not the way a tour brochure does. Then I give you three honest alternatives, and I tell you what each one takes away.

What to cut, and why

Cut these first, before you plan a single day. This is the most useful paragraph on the page.

The Amazon. Puerto Maldonado is only a 55-minute flight from Cusco, which makes it look tempting. But a jungle lodge worth the airfare is a minimum of three days and two nights, and the good ones are another one to three hours upriver from the airstrip. A single overnight in a lodge 20 minutes from town is a boat ride and a caiman spotlight, not the Amazon. If wildlife is the reason you are coming to Peru, read what a realistic Peruvian Amazon trip involves and then plan ten days, not seven.

Arequipa and Colca Canyon. Arequipa is a genuinely lovely city and Colca is spectacular, but Colca is a two-day commitment from Arequipa and Arequipa is a day in its own right. That is three days. In a week, adding Arequipa and the Colca Canyon means dropping either the Sacred Valley or Cusco city entirely, and you will be on a plane or a night bus twice more.

Lake Titicaca. Puno sits at 3,810 m, higher than Cusco, and it is seven hours by tourist bus or ten by the scenic train. Two nights minimum to be worth doing. The islands and communities on Lake Titicaca reward slow travel and punish rushing more than almost anywhere else in Peru. Save it.

Nazca, Paracas and Huacachina. Several of the biggest tour-operator itineraries squeeze the southern coast in on day two. It is a three to three and a half hour drive each way from Lima, and it puts you back on a plane to Cusco with jet lag intact. The dunes, the Ballestas Islands and the Nazca Lines are a separate trip, or the front end of a two-week one.

The four-day Inca Trail. I will come back to this, because it is the one cut that upsets people. In a seven-day trip the classic four-day Inca Trail eats four of your five usable days, needs a permit booked five to eight months in advance, and leaves you no acclimatisation buffer at all. It is a wonderful thing to do on a ten-day trip.

Get the altitude order right — most guides have it backwards

This is the correction that will do you the most good, so I want to be blunt about it.

Cusco is at 3,400 m. The Sacred Valley floor, around Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, is at roughly 2,800 m. Machu Picchu itself is at 2,430 m — nearly a kilometre lower than Cusco. A lot of itineraries have you land at Cusco airport and then sleep in Cusco for two nights, walking up and down its very steep streets, before descending to the valley. That is the wrong way round. You are asking your body to do its hardest adjustment on the day it is most jet-lagged.

The better sequence is simple: land at Cusco, do not linger, and drive straight down to the Sacred Valley to sleep. You lose almost nothing — the transfer is about 1h15 to Urubamba and 1h30 to Ollantaytambo — and you spend your first three nights 600 m lower. By the time you come back up to Cusco on day five, you have been at moderate altitude for four days and the city is easy. What altitude in Cusco actually feels like and how long adjustment takes is worth understanding before you book, because it dictates the shape of the whole week.

Two related rules. Nothing strenuous on day one at altitude — no ruins with 200 steps, no hiking, no alcohol. And do not schedule Machu Picchu for day two. I explain why in the mistakes section, but the short version is that a delayed international flight or a cancelled Cusco departure turns a non-refundable timed entry into money set on fire.

The Urubamba river winding along the floor of the Sacred Valley between steep terraced Andean slopes
Photo: McKay Savage from London, UK / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The week, day by day

Day 1 — Land in Lima

Most long-haul flights from the US East Coast and Europe land in Lima somewhere between 21:00 and 00:30. If that is you, skip to the no-Lima variant below. If you land in the morning or early afternoon, you have half a day, and Lima deserves it.

Take a registered taxi or the Airport Express to Miraflores — 40 to 75 minutes depending on traffic, and rush hour here is genuinely punishing. Walk the Malecón, drop down to Barranco in the late afternoon, and eat. Lima is one of the two or three best eating cities in the Americas and the ceviche at a mid-range cevichería will beat anything you have had at home. There is far more worth doing in Lima than a single afternoon allows, which is exactly why I would rather give it a proper two days on a longer trip than pad it out here.

Sleep: Miraflores or San Isidro. If your onward flight is before 08:00, an airport hotel in Callao saves you an hour of anxiety.

Day 2 — Fly to Cusco, then go straight down to the valley

Book a morning flight. LIM to CUZ is roughly 1h20 in the air, and Cusco’s airport is notorious for afternoon wind and morning fog, so the earlier your slot the better your odds of leaving on time. Fares run $60 to $180 one way depending on how far ahead you book and whether you are on LATAM, Sky or JetSmart.

Then the important bit: do not check into a hotel in Cusco. Arrange a transfer at the airport — a private car is around $35 to $60 to Ollantaytambo, a shared colectivo from Avenida Grau is 10 to 15 soles per person — and drive down. You will be in the valley by early afternoon, 600 m lower, with the whole day still ahead of you.

Spend the afternoon doing nothing demanding. Walk the grid of Ollantaytambo’s old town, which is still laid out on its Inca street plan with water running in the channels. Drink coca tea, which does help. Eat early and sleep. If the drive from the airport is your first taste of Peruvian roads, the general rules of getting around Peru by road, rail and air will save you a lot of guesswork later in the week.

Sleep: Ollantaytambo or Urubamba (2,800 m).

Day 3 — The Sacred Valley, properly

The standard Sacred Valley tour is a bus that gives you 40 minutes at each of four sites and 90 minutes at a lunch buffet with a craft shop attached. It is cheap and it is not very good. With your own driver or a hired taxi for the day (roughly S/250–350, or $70–95), you can do this instead.

Start at Moray, the concentric agricultural terraces, before the tour buses arrive around 10:00. Then the Maras salt pans, which are still worked by families with inherited rights to individual ponds and are more interesting than the photos suggest. Lunch in Urubamba. Then, and this is the trick, do the Ollantaytambo ruins from about 16:00, once the day tours have driven back to Cusco. The site is quiet, the light on the Temple Hill is better, and you can climb the storehouse path across the valley without queuing.

Skip Pisac if you are only doing one valley day. It is fine, but it is furthest from Ollantaytambo and its market has become largely a resale operation. The case for giving the Sacred Valley more than one rushed day is strong enough that on a ten-day trip I would give it two.

You will need the Cusco tourist ticket, which is the only way into Sacsayhuamán, for the ruins. The partial Circuit III ticket covering the valley sites is S/70, valid two days; the full ten-site ticket is S/130 and valid ten days. Buy the full one only if you are also doing Sacsayhuamán and the Cusco museums, which on this plan you are.

Sleep: Ollantaytambo (2,800 m).

Blue PeruRail carriages waiting at the platform in Ollantaytambo station, the departure point for the train to Aguas Calientes
Photo: PsamatheM / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Day 4 — Train down the gorge to Aguas Calientes

Take an afternoon train. Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes is about 1h40, and standard class — PeruRail Expedition or Inca Rail Voyager — runs roughly $35 to $60 per leg depending on departure time. The panoramic classes (Vistadome, 360°) are around double and are pleasant but not necessary; the ordinary carriages have perfectly good windows and the scenery does the work. Book 60 to 90 days out in high season, because the convenient departures sell out first. The differences between operators and classes on the train to Machu Picchu matter more for your budget than almost any other single decision in the week.

Luggage limit on the train is 5 kg plus a small daypack, strictly enforced by some conductors and ignored by others. Leave your main bag at your Ollantaytambo hotel or in Cusco storage and take a duffel.

The reason to sleep in Aguas Calientes rather than day-tripping from Ollantaytambo is straightforward: it puts you at the bottom of the shuttle road at 05:15 the next morning instead of on a 04:30 train. The town itself is a strip of hotels and restaurants wedged into a river gorge, and nobody pretends otherwise, but Aguas Calientes has a couple of genuinely decent things to do in a spare afternoon — the Mandor gardens walk and the site museum among them.

Sleep: Aguas Calientes (2,040 m).

Day 5 — Machu Picchu, then back to Cusco

Book the 06:00 entry slot. Entry is timed hourly from 06:00 to 16:00 with a 30-minute grace period, and the queue for the first shuttles starts forming well before 05:00. The Consettur shuttle costs about $24 round trip and takes 25 to 30 minutes up the switchbacks; walking up takes 60 to 90 punishing minutes and is only worth it if you are counting every dollar.

Since 1 June 2024 the site has run on three circuits and ten routes, one-way only, with rangers actually enforcing the direction of travel. You cannot wander and you cannot double back. Circuit 1 and Circuit 2 both take in the Guardian’s House terrace — the postcard view. Circuit 2 adds the urban sector, the temples and the main plaza, and for a first visit it is the one to buy. Circuit 3 enters from below and never climbs to the classic viewpoint. Plan on 2.5 to 4 hours inside depending on your circuit.

Entry is S/163 for a foreign adult, or S/211 for the routes that include a Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain climb. Those figures went up on 1 May 2026 when SERNANP added a conservation surcharge on top of the unchanged base ticket, so any guide still quoting S/152 is out of date. The daily cap is 4,500 visitors, rising to 5,600 on peak dates (1 January, 2–5 April, 19 June to 2 November, and 30–31 December). Tickets go on sale through the official government portal and the popular slots for June to August disappear two to three months out. Check the portal before you book anything else, because the ticket system and its circuit rules change more often than any other part of the trip.

One practical note on the add-on climbs: if you want a summit, the choice between Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain is not just about difficulty. The Huayna Picchu ticket routes you through the lower circuit, so you get the vertiginous climb but not the classic upper terrace. The Machu Picchu Mountain ticket sits on the upper circuit and gives you both. On a week-long trip with limited acclimatisation, I would skip both and use the time.

Come down for lunch, take an early-afternoon train back to Ollantaytambo, and transfer to Cusco by road, about 1h30. You will be in the city for dinner. The whole return leg takes four to four and a half hours door to door. If you would rather compress this into a single very long day from the city, the trade-offs of doing Cusco to Machu Picchu and back in one go are real and mostly not in your favour.

Sleep: Cusco (3,400 m).

Day 6 — Cusco, at last

Now you get the city, and now you can handle the hills. Start at Qorikancha, where the Spanish built a Dominican church directly on top of the Inca sun temple and the join between the two is visible in every wall. Walk up through San Blas, which is steep and worth it. Sacsayhuamán, with its cyclopean zigzag walls, is a 15-minute taxi or a hard 40-minute walk from the plaza, and it is included on the full tourist ticket.

Eat well. Cusco’s restaurant scene has become genuinely good over the last decade, and there is a wide gap between the places with a tout outside on the plaza and the places locals actually book. Try cuy if you want to; try alpaca if you do not. If you want to understand what you are eating, a primer on Peruvian food beyond ceviche and pisco sours makes the week more interesting.

Where you base yourself changes the day a lot — San Blas is charming and involves climbing stairs every time you come home, while the streets north of the plaza are flatter and noisier. Choosing a Cusco neighbourhood is worth ten minutes of thought.

Sleep: Cusco.

Day 7 — Out

A morning in Cusco, then an afternoon flight to Lima and your onward connection. Do not book anything ambitious on this day.

If your international flight leaves Lima late in the evening, you can take a midday CUZ–LIM and still have a buffer. If it leaves in the afternoon, fly to Lima the night before and sleep near the airport. Cusco’s airport cancels and delays often enough that treating a same-day connection as reliable is a bad bet.

The week at a glance

Day Where you sleep Main activity Travel time Approx. cost (mid-range)
1 Lima (Miraflores) Arrive, Malecón and Barranco, dinner 40–75 min airport transfer $60
2 Ollantaytambo or Urubamba Fly to Cusco, transfer straight down to the valley 1h20 flight + 1h30 road $180
3 Ollantaytambo Moray, Maras salt pans, Ollantaytambo ruins late afternoon 2–3 h driving across the day $120
4 Aguas Calientes Afternoon train down the gorge, settle in 1h40 train $110
5 Cusco Machu Picchu 06:00 entry, then return to Cusco 30 min shuttle + 1h40 train + 1h30 road $170
6 Cusco Qorikancha, San Blas, Sacsayhuamán, San Pedro market Walking plus a 15 min taxi $90
7 Morning in Cusco, afternoon flight out 1h20 flight to Lima $120

Three honest variants

Every one of these is a real option. Every one of them costs you something specific, and I am going to name it rather than pretend the swap is free.

Variant A — the Amazon swap

Fly Cusco to Puerto Maldonado (55 minutes, $60–140) on day five after Machu Picchu, spend two nights at a lodge, and fly back on day seven via Lima.

What you give up: Cusco city entirely, and one of your two Sacred Valley days. You will land in Cusco on day two, sleep in the valley, do the valley on day three, train on day four, Machu Picchu on day five morning, then fly to the jungle that same afternoon — which is a brutal day. You also give up your altitude buffer, since you are going from 3,400 m to 200 m and back to 3,400 m for a connection.

Who it is for: people for whom wildlife matters more than ruins, and who are willing to see Cusco through a taxi window. Choose a lodge at least two hours upriver; the ones 20 minutes from the airstrip are essentially a river cruise with a hammock.

Variant B — the Arequipa and Colca swap

Lima to Arequipa is a 1h40 flight. Give Arequipa a day, Colca two (you sleep in Chivay or Cabanaconde and see the condors at Cruz del Cóndor in the morning), then fly Arequipa–Cusco, about an hour.

What you give up: the Sacred Valley, and with it your gentle altitude ramp. You will land in Cusco and have to sleep there. You will do Machu Picchu as a long day trip or a single rushed overnight, and you will have three flights inside a week. Arequipa itself is at 2,335 m, so it helps a little, but Colca’s passes go above 4,900 m and that is a hard way to acclimatise.

Who it is for: repeat visitors who have already seen Machu Picchu, or people who want colonial cities and canyons more than Inca sites. For a first trip, I would not do it.

Variant C — the no-Lima version

This one I actually recommend for a lot of people. If your flight lands in Lima at 23:00, do not spend a day recovering in Miraflores. Book an airport hotel in Callao, take the 05:30 or 06:00 flight to Cusco, and be in the Sacred Valley by 09:30 on what would have been day two.

What you gain: a full extra day in the valley. You can give the Sacred Valley two days instead of one, or add a short acclimatisation walk, or spend a second night in Aguas Calientes and enter Machu Picchu twice on two different circuits.

What you give up: Lima, which really is one of the best food cities in the world, and a safety margin. If your international flight is delayed by four hours you will miss a non-refundable domestic departure. Book the domestic leg on a separate ticket only if you can afford to lose it; otherwise book Lima–Cusco on the same reservation as your international flight so a delay is the airline’s problem.

Comparing the three

Variant What you add What it costs you Extra spend
Amazon (Puerto Maldonado) 2 nights in lowland rainforest, genuine wildlife All of Cusco city, one valley day, your altitude buffer $400–900
Arequipa and Colca A colonial city, condors, the canyon The entire Sacred Valley, a gentle altitude ramp, two more flights $350–700
No Lima A full extra day in the Andes Lima’s food, and your delay margin Roughly neutral
Visitors standing beside the massive interlocking megaliths of the Sacsayhuaman walls on the hillside above Cusco
Photo: W. Bulach / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

What one week in Peru actually costs

Per person, in US dollars, excluding international flights and insurance. These are the numbers I would plan against, not the numbers a package price implies. The tour operators quoting $1,450 to $2,200 for a “comfort” week are quoting a bundled product with a margin on it; done independently at the same standard of hotel you land closer to the middle column.

Line item Budget Mid-range Comfort
Domestic flights (LIM–CUZ return) $100 $150 $220
Train, Ollantaytambo–Aguas Calientes return $80 (standard) $140 (Vistadome one way) $220 (panoramic both ways)
Machu Picchu entry $44 (S/163) $44 (S/163) $57 (S/211 with a summit)
Shuttle bus to the site $12 (up only, walk down) $24 $24
Cusco tourist ticket $19 (partial, S/70) $35 (full, S/130) $35 (full, S/130)
Accommodation, 6 nights $120 $360 $900
Food and drink, 7 days $126 $280 $560
Guides, day hire and tours $60 $220 $450
Local transport and transfers $30 $70 $150
All-in total ~$590 ~$1,325 ~$2,615

Two honest caveats. The budget column assumes hostel dorms or basic guesthouses, standard-class trains, colectivos rather than private transfers, and eating a lot of set-menu almuerzos at S/12–20. It is entirely achievable and I have seen people do the week for less, but the $350 figures you sometimes see quoted online do not include the train, and the train is unavoidable unless you take the long back route via Hidroeléctrica. If you are optimising hard, the specific tactics for doing Machu Picchu on a budget are where the real savings are, and for the wider picture, what a Peru trip costs across different styles puts these numbers in context.

One small thing that catches students out: ISIC cards are no longer accepted for the reduced Machu Picchu rate. You need a university photo ID with a printed expiry date on it, and under-18s need a passport.

The five mistakes I see most often

1. Booking Machu Picchu for day two. This is the big one. Your entry ticket is timed, non-transferable and effectively non-refundable. Put it on day two and any of the following ruins your trip: an international flight delay, a cancelled Cusco departure, a strike closing the road to Ollantaytambo, or simply arriving at 3,400 m with a headache severe enough that a 04:30 start is unthinkable. Day four or five gives you slack, and you will enjoy it far more with three days of acclimatisation behind you. If you are still deciding how much of the week to give it, the case for how many days Machu Picchu really needs is worth reading first.

2. Treating the Lima connection as free. A same-day international arrival plus a domestic departure with two hours between them is not a plan, it is a wager. Lima’s airport has a single terminal for domestic and international, and you may need to reclaim and recheck bags. In the other direction, a same-day CUZ–LIM then international with under four hours of margin ignores how often Cusco’s morning fog holds aircraft on the ground. Build in a night, or fly out of Cusco the day before.

3. Underestimating the Sacred Valley. Most people plan the valley as a corridor between Cusco and the train. It is the best part of the week for a lot of travellers — lower, warmer, greener, less touristed than Cusco, with Inca engineering at Moray and Ollantaytambo that is arguably more impressive than anything at Machu Picchu because you can walk right up to it. Give it two nights minimum. The range of Inca sites across Peru makes more sense once you have seen a working terrace system up close.

4. Buying the wrong circuit. People buy a Huayna Picchu combination ticket because it sounds like the premium option, then discover on the day that their circuit never reaches the terrace the postcard was taken from. If you want the classic view, buy Circuit 2 for a first visit, or Circuit 1 if you mainly want the panorama and the upper terraces. Read the route description on the official portal, not the tour agency’s paraphrase of it.

5. Adding a 5,000 m day hike at the end. Rainbow Mountain and Humantay Lake both appear on seven-day itineraries as a day six or seven filler. Vinicunca tops out around 5,036 m and involves a 03:00 departure; Rainbow Mountain is genuinely hard at that altitude and a substantial number of people turn back. Humantay Lake at 4,200 m is shorter but still a steep hour and a half up. Neither is a good idea on your penultimate day if you have a flight to catch. If you want one, put it on day six and accept that day seven will be a write-off, or look at gentler day trips from Cusco instead.

What seven days will not let you do

Name it clearly, because half the disappointment in travel comes from expectations nobody corrected.

You will not see the Amazon properly. You will not see Lake Titicaca, Arequipa, the Colca Canyon, the Nazca Lines, Huaraz, the Cordillera Blanca or anything in northern Peru, which contains Chan Chan, Kuélap and the Chachapoyas cloud forest and which almost no visitor sees. You will not hike the classic four-day Inca Trail. You will not have a rest day.

You will also not do a multi-day trek. The Salkantay, the Lares and the Choquequirao routes are four to five days each and belong to a different trip; if long-distance walking is the reason you want to come, the survey of Peru’s best multi-day treks will tell you honestly how much time each needs.

Extend to ten days if: you want the four-day Inca Trail or any trek; you want the Amazon; you are travelling with children or anyone over 65, for whom the altitude ramp needs to be gentler; or you want more than one night in Lima. Ten days is the point at which a second region stops being a mistake.

Accept a smaller trip if: you only have five or six days. In that case cut Lima entirely, fly straight to Cusco, and do the valley and Machu Picchu only. A tight, well-executed five days beats a frantic seven.

When to go, and what to pack for it

May and September are the sweet spot: the Andean dry season without the July and August peak crowds and prices. June to August gives you the most reliable weather and the highest visitor numbers, and it is when both trains and Machu Picchu tickets sell out furthest ahead. January and February are the wettest months, the Inca Trail closes for maintenance in February, and while the valley is beautifully green, a rained-out Machu Picchu visit on a one-shot ticket is a real risk. The month-by-month detail on the best time to visit Peru matters more for a seven-day trip than a longer one, because you have no spare day to wait out weather. Cusco’s own month-by-month pattern of crowds, prices and night-time cold is what you are really planning around on this route.

Pack for three climates in one week: Lima is humid and grey, the Sacred Valley swings from 4°C at dawn to 22°C at noon, and Aguas Calientes is subtropical. Layers, a rain shell in any month, and proper shoes with grip — the Inca stone is polished and lethal when wet. There is more detail in the guide to what to wear at Machu Picchu, and a broader set of practical Peru travel tips covering money, altitude medication and taxis.

Frequently asked questions

Is 7 days enough for Peru?

It is enough for one region done well, and not enough for two. Seven days covers Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu comfortably, with a day in Lima at either end. It does not cover Peru. If you accept that framing you will have an excellent week; if you fight it you will spend the week in transit.

Should I sleep in Cusco or the Sacred Valley first?

The Sacred Valley, at around 2,800 m, rather than Cusco at 3,400 m. Land at Cusco airport and transfer straight down. You will sleep better, adjust faster, and Cusco will be easy when you come back up on day five. This is the single change that improves most seven-day plans.

How many days do I need in Cusco before Machu Picchu?

Two full days at moderate altitude before you go is a sensible minimum, and the valley counts. Machu Picchu itself is at 2,430 m, lower than Cusco, so it is not the altitude challenge people imagine — but the days either side of it are. If you are planning the city separately, the question of how many days Cusco itself deserves has a different answer depending on whether you are using it as a base or a destination.

Can I hike the Inca Trail on a seven-day trip?

The classic four-day trail, realistically no — it consumes four of your five usable days and requires a permit booked five to eight months ahead, with only 500 places a day including porters and guides. The one-day Inca Trail from Km 104 is a genuine alternative: six to eight hours, arriving through the Sun Gate, and it slots into a single day of this itinerary. It also needs a permit, booked months ahead.

How much does a 7 day trip to Peru cost?

Roughly $590 budget, $1,325 mid-range and $2,615 comfort per person on the ground, excluding international flights. The unavoidable fixed costs are the domestic flights, the train and the Machu Picchu entry, which together come to about $250 even at the cheapest. Everything above that is a choice.

Do I need to include Lima at all?

No, and if you land late at night you are better off skipping it. But Lima has one of the best restaurant scenes in the world and it is at sea level, which makes it a useful buffer between a long-haul flight and 3,400 m. If you can only give it half a day, give it an evening in Barranco and eat.

Is it better to day-trip Machu Picchu or stay in Aguas Calientes?

Stay the night. A day trip from Cusco means a train before 05:00, a compressed visit and a return after 21:00, and you will see the site at its most crowded. A night in Aguas Calientes buys you the 06:00 entry slot and a calmer morning for around $40–80. On whether the whole thing lives up to it, the honest answer to whether Machu Picchu is worth it depends almost entirely on how you arrive.

How far ahead should I book?

Machu Picchu entry: three to four months for June to September, six weeks otherwise. Trains: 60 to 90 days in high season. Domestic flights: as early as you can, since LIM–CUZ fares climb steeply inside a month. Hotels are the flexible part. For the site’s peak dates the cap rises from 4,500 to 5,600 visitors a day, which sounds generous until you realise those are exactly the dates everyone wants.

What is the single best month for one week in Peru?

September. Dry enough to be reliable, past the peak crowds, and the valley is still green from the tail of the rains. May is the close second. The seasonal picture specific to the site — cloud cover, crowd levels, ticket availability — is covered in more detail in the guide to the best time to visit Machu Picchu.

The short version

Fly to Cusco, go straight down to the Sacred Valley, give the valley two nights, take the train, sleep in Aguas Calientes, enter Machu Picchu at 06:00 on day five, and finish in Cusco. Book the entry ticket and the train first and build everything else around them. Cut the Amazon, cut Titicaca, cut Arequipa, and cut the four-day trek. Spend the money you save on a private driver for your valley day and a good dinner in Cusco.

A week is not a lot of time in a country this size. But it is exactly the right amount of time for the Cusco region, and there is no shame in coming home having seen one thing properly. Everything else is still there for the next trip — and the rest of what Peru has to offer will make a good deal more sense once you have stood on those terraces at six in the morning.

Part of the Peru Itineraries guide

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